There should be 3 wires in this connector. It's only a few screws and won't hurt anything as long as you have hopefully disconnected the negative battery cable by now! Inside you'll find a ridiculously small 5.25" driver and a small metal box that looks similar to the main Bose amp, just an aluminum enclosure with some wires connected via a small connector. The best way to find out for sure which wires you need is to remove the Bose unit from the spare tire hold down and open the case. I have read that the wire colors and some of the pin locations differ from year to year but I haven't worked on any others so I don't know this for certain, however the wires you need will certainly be in this harness and similarly run. The left one is the wires for the rear speakers and sub amp (2013 Rogue SV confirmed, others may have slightly different wires but the main amp and harnesses should be the same 08'-13' + 14'and 15' Select, and possibly 14' - 19' unconfirmed) This is the one you'll need. The right one is the main harness coming from the front with the signal wires from the head unit and the power wires for the speakers. There's no need to remove it or otherwise mess with it unless you are replacing it.įrom the rear of the vehicle, you'll see 2 wiring harness connectors going into the amp. Once that is out, there are 3 bolts that hold down that side panel in the cargo area and the main amp will be right behind the seat. There's an inexpensive tool set available for working on interior car applications, it can be your friend. It's held in place by plastic push clips, try not to break them. Next flip both rear seat backs down and remove the tether hook cover that runs across the front of the cargo area right behind the rear seats. In the Rogues, at least the first and I believe also second gen the main amp is mounted to the body under the right (pass side) interior cargo panel which is accessible by removing the spare tire cover and a small panel to the side and rear which is held there with velcro. There is a wire bundle going from the main Bose amp to the satellite amp for the sub which are both inside the enclosure that is part of the spare tire hold down. Not sure if the roof needs it too because I didn't do the others but possibly.Īnyway, down to the nitty gritty. If I open the back at a gathering or the beach or whatever, all the rattles stop. I don't and can't hear it inside so IDC what the people outside think. Sounds great inside the car but could use some Dynamat or equivalent for liftgate, doors, and rear quarter panels and definitely a plate mat, unless you don't care how it sounds outside the car. Not a ground shaker or SPL winner but does turn plenty of heads and closes windows real quick at stops lol. I added a 500watt RMS amp and 2 250watt RMS drivers in a ported box and it's plenty adequate. If you have the Bose with subwoofer this is the easiest way, however the Bose system will be "governing" your sub amp.
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